Ringside Seats in Salvador – view from a second floor window
Continuing north up Brazil to the north-eastern state of Bahia, I arrive at Salvador in the middle of the night. I decide it safer to take a cab.
The crazy web of unnamed cobbled streets was deserted and still.
Equally crazed was my driver, who made the journey anything but still.
It was unusual that everywhere was so quiet driving into the city – there is usually something going on somewhere in the bigger towns and cities in Brazil; at any time of day or night.
Arriving in a new place and having travelled, I’m not sure whether I feel tired or not but know that I won’t be able to sleep. I request a room at the front, one overlooking the main street and sit and watch out of the window. I sometimes enjoy doing this after a long day in a new place at night. Remembering early perceptions and feeling them change as familiarity dawns.
Not much is going on but light will be arriving soon, so get the camera out for a play.
A family is camped out on the street below, different generations in various stages of sleep. The unusual thing was that periodically they would go back to their heavily laden car for something. It seemed a strange spot to chose to sleep if you have a car.
Looking the other way, to the left, in the direction of the neighbouring church, it is still dark.
Feeling sleepy, I look back inside, the stone bed looks more inviting..
Three bright white flashes violently crack the dark silence just above the building I am in, making me leap back from my chair and fell not particularly sleepy again.
The culprit was a fairly respectable looking, late middle aged gentleman who had previously appeared to be sitting peacefully on the balcony of the church.
Several more trios of cracks sound around the locale before it falls quiet again.
It’s starting to light now and more people are stirring – apparently it is time for Salvador to wake up!
I decide to go to bed, apparently the only person doing this, judging from the rising volume pouring through the shutter.
Falling in and out of sleep, I become aware of a never ending stream of drumming and a lot more fireworks. It turns out that today, the 2nd July, is Bahian Independence day, and a huge carnival day. Brazilians really know how to throw a street party. The family I had observed a few hours previously were in a prime selling spot. Under my window, traditionally dressed Bahian ladies deep fried snacks – the strong, distinctive smell of the Dende oil drifting up into my room, making me hungry.
Sleep is clearly not an option – the cacophony of noise continues to rise to a never ending climax, waxing and waning as the blocos pass and a new one takes its place. This drumming frenzy sits on top of a very loud backline of reggae emanating from the Praca de Reggae opposite.
Every group representing a cause or organisation of some kind had a parade. I have a ringside seat, so give up on the sleep idea, take photos and write this.
It’s been pumping for hours already and shows no sign of slowing.
Time to stop watching and go out and enjoy!
Haha, I love this photo. Spot the odd one out!
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